Oh weary deary me … the point of a ‘blog’, Ralph, is that it is updated regularly and quickly, otherwise Yon Gentle Reader loses interest and goes and surfs for something more interesting, like watching paint dry, or Olympic canoodling or dwyle flonking or something. Er, yes (conversation of writer with self), you’re quite right, but things get forced in upon one by sheer pressure of what one does for a living (writes) and, you know, you cannot accomplish anything if you don’t just CONCENTRATE ON ONE THING AT A TIME but you can’t, because you’ve got 4 projects running concurrently and there’s only you (me) to do the creation, direction, production, chasing up other people’s people, hunting down MONEY, marketing on most of ‘em.Never mind. Here I am in the Men-deeps again, oh Gentle Muse, where the men hang out…
That complicated twist of valley
and the way it breathes out:
Bristol Channel
Down Elrick Road, Rodgate, into Blagdon. Stock up on provisions in the Spar Markt. Busy manageress says she saw me on TV. Massive tanker honks, boogies and grinds up narrow street outside. The butcher round the corner tells me of Bob ‘Two Adders’ Johnson (could’ve got the name wrong there, writing got washed away in a storm). Seems this ‘ere Bob, like, was up at Charterhouse or somewhere, showing the kids some fine specimens of adders. So he picks up one, holding it careful like. That’s fine. Then he decides to pick up t’other, like you do, only he can’t have his attention on two of the beasties at same time like, so what does original beasty do? Why, the scurvy little slimy sod squirms i’self round in his grip and bites him, dunnit. Ow. So Bob very carefully puts both of them back in the box, where they continue adding, or multiplying or something, takes a step or two back and says quietly to the teacher, ‘I think you’d better get me an ambulance…’, then gently collapses. So that’s the Bob ‘Two Adders’ story.
I ascertain the footpath leading off a lane round the back on the uphill side, wander up a field in wet grass and follow the turn off to the right, heading for the wooded slopes up from the Bath Road, the A368. Just before I dive into the wood the field is striped in newly germinated corn, sweeping up to a single old oak proclaiming the rebirth of the Galleon. Above it, the sky shifts. Over a stile, then, into Dark Wood. This continual interplay of dark/light; light/dark. Up on the tops in short grass – light; diving down into green woods – dark. I try and video this fluid boundary, propping the camera up on a fallen tree, waiting for a patch of sunlight to sweep over the oak, then over me. A short way into the wood (Fuller’s Hay) the path dips to cross what would be an avalance run in the Alps. Can’t be – I don’t think Blagdon is known for avalanches, but it’s the same trichterfoermig (funnel-shaped) shape. Maybe water-formed, then? Local kids did it in Play-Dough? It looks as if water still cascades over the path into it in storms, but then gets soaked up by the grass.
An old, weather-beaten mossy sign hanging high in a slip of hazel says
nothing at all anymore. What could it say? ‘Have a good life’? ‘Mind the gap!’ ‘Scubidoo’? ‘Piss off or you’ll get shot’? Who knows. Perhaps it just says, ‘this is not a sign’, in which case, fine, I’ll go for that in this strangest of all possible worlds. I mean, isn’t it strange and absolutely breath-taking that we are here and able to say ‘this is a strange world’?The path winds up through Fuller’s Hay and I get out my Ready-At-All-Times dedicated Internet-linked Wap-2-Wap User-Enabled Guided Missile Mobile Phone in Flaming Red with Bumpy Monkeys’ Theme Toon to check what this could mean (no, I don’t – how on earth is one supposed to accomplish anything at all if one is wired up 24/7? Geddalife! Sling it out!!!) But I do check later. Want a job as a fuller ? here’s the JD:
“The 13th century is boom time for the wool trade. With three sheep to every man, woman and child, wool is our biggest export. But nobody likes stiff and itchy cloth that falls to pieces, so we have several openings for fullers.
As a fuller, you are expected to walk up and down all day in huge vats of stinking stale urine. The ammonia produced by the rotten wee may make your eyes water, but it creates the softest cloth by drawing out the grease (lanolin) from the wool. If you can dance up to your knees in urine for around two hours per length of cloth, you'll succeed in closing the fibres of the wool and interlocking them to produce cloth that is kind to the skin. You will be doing your part, along with the weavers, dyers and merchants, in making it a world-beating export. You may stink and regularly have to fight back the urge to throw up, but you are guaranteed very clean toenails.” http://www.channel4.com/history/microsites/W/worstjobs/medieval.html:
Anyone going for that? Beats shelf-stacking in the local Sainsbury’s? Shelf-awareness? Hmm, let’s see … I have vaguely heard somewhere of ‘Fuller’s Earth’ – so what’s that?
Fuller's earth is any nonplastic clay or claylike earthy material that can be used to decolorize, filter, and purify animal, mineral, and vegetable oils and greases. The name reflects the first use of the material. In past centuries, fullers (q.v.) kneaded fuller's earth and water into woollen cloth to absorb lanolin, oils, and other greasy impurities as part of the cloth finishing process.
Fuller's earth was also sold in pharmacies until recently for compressing pills and it is sometimes used by crane operators and their oilers to absorb grease and oil off the brake bands on the winches to make them function properly.
Fuller's earth is also used by military forces to clean soldiers who are contaminated with chemical weapons. It also finds use in special effects when simulating explosions. Fine-grained fuller's earth makes a much larger plume than ordinary dirt, suggesting a larger explosion and allowing a smaller, safer charge to be used. Important uses are in absorbents and filters. Because of this, fuller's earth is sometimes found in cat litter. Hills, cliffs and slopes containing fuller's earth can be unstable, since this material can be thixotropic when saturated by heavy rainfall. (source: Wikipedia)
Beats floundering around in stale urine, I’d say. Where’d they get it from? Well, from around here they probably got it from around here at the Combe Hay Mine. Which “was a fuller's earth mine operating to the south of Bath Somerset until 1979.”
More? Combe Hay is “a village in the English county of Somerset. It falls within the Cotswolds Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Combe Hay was known in the Domesday Book as Cumb. The village includes a church with a 15th century tower, a Georgian manor house and Georgian rectory. Coombe Hay was the site of a series of locks, dating from 1805 on the Somerset Coal Canal on which research and restoration is proposed. It is the site of the only Caisson lock ever built which was near the current Caisson House. Many of the locks and associated workings are listed buildings. It was also served by the Camerton and Limpley Stoke Railway, and was the site of a Fuller's Earth mine until 1979.”
Wunnerf
ul innit? Dunno quite what the following link which came up under a search for ‘Fuller’ has to do with anything, but it’s wunnerful, too … http://home.pacbell.net/barbward/elfdiar2.htmI come to a farmstead populated by a lone goose and a tidgy pony and hang a left, thru’ an open field towards a dead tree signalling the end of the world (doommongery even more popular than usual nowadays. Well, some of us will survive. Either that or it’s cockroaches’ chance to take over the earth. Can you hear the slither of thousands of insect legs? Slither slither.) I circumnavigate some sheep, emerge onto the Nature Reserve above Burrington Combe, start to trot off over the Ham but then think ‘oh what the -, I can’t be doing with descending to the Rock of Ages then up again the other side’’, so double back and head straight up Black Down, find a nice spot slightly sheltered by the trig point at the top for lunch.
Five tumuli are strung out along the path here, the sun and clouds chasing shadows over them. Wave after wave. I wonder about the wave after wave of people who’ve swept over these hills, some to rest here for ever, others, doubtless, to move on. Reminds me of a quote in Simon Schama’s book about ‘Trees’ (I break off to search my book shelves but can’t find it, tho’ it’s a massive great volume…). Anyway, he was talking about the Jews in the ancient forests of (Lithuania?) and, I think, quoting someone who asked an old Jew about his ‘roots’. ‘Roots???’ scoffed this guy, ‘We’re not trees, we’re humans. Jews don’t have ‘roots’, we have LEGS. We pick ‘em up and walk!’
Story of Humankind: ‘We have legs, we pick ‘em up and walk.’ And so we do, thro
ugh all human history, in every age and time. We pick ‘em up, and we walk. Neolithic Man, the Beaker Folk, Bronze Age Man, the Romans – they all picked ‘em up and walked here, to these hills, and over them, and beyond, and into new lives, old deaths. Wave after wave. Where is their voice? The wind soughs over Black Down, fleeting cloud casts shadows on their remains.After a long lunch I consult the map and head due South to Burrington Common. I consider the ‘Inclosure Act of’ oh, 1870? Earlier this year I wrote a series of scripts for the Peaks National Park, one of which was on the ‘In-, or En-closure Acts’ up there. The track goes straight over a barrow. They all have indentations on the top, perhaps where the stones have collapsed underneath (?). The turf on top of this barrow is short and springy. I sit, then lie down and fall asleep. Wake up with a start. Tom Bombadil calling? No, just the wind. Sweet bilberries grow on warrior’s grave. Better be getting on.
The ‘track’ gets increasingly wet. How come it’s so wet on top of a hill, the highest point of the Mendips? I cross a very watery stile, skirt a brick bunkerhouse from WWII and enter the Land of the Dead. The Land of the Dead is a triangular piece of ground fenced around at all sides at the top of a field above a couple of springs. They used to hang people here. I imagine the country folk trooping up the field to witness justice being done or to gawk at the spectacle. Red-faced farmers with their wives in their Sunday best, ‘have you got the hamper, dear? Cheddar?’
‘Life/Death’, such easy things to say, such hard things to know. What did the Swedish poet say? “We think that when life ends, death begins. This is wrong. When life ends, death ends, too.” There was a Bavarian film on in Germany when I was there this summer entitled, ‘Wer frueher stirbt, ist laenger tod’ (‘he who dies early is dead longer’). Was in Bavarian dialect, so the Schwabs in Stuttgart had some problems understanding, for example, what a ‘oichketzelswoif’ could be (? It’s a squirrel’s tail – an ‘Eiche’ is an Oak, an ‘Eichkaetze’ is an ‘oak kitten’ ie. a squirrel, and it’s ‘swoif’ is its tail. There you go, isn’t language fascinating?)
I hop over the fence into unclean land. Restless thorn trees, close-clustered stink of death. When in residence at Tintagel, North Cornwall I wrote:
Then down the field, off the hill, across a ginnel (that’s Scotttish, isn’t it? No, Yorkshire, um, Lancashire? North, anyway) which proclaims itself ‘The Property of Bristol Water’ and onto the lane leading to the Charterhouse Centre. Meet up with Jim and Merryn, pick up her tent and she carries it down for me to Nether Wood where I camp for the night in Black Bunny Hollow. My tent pegs grate on fused clinker just below the surface. I write:
The Great, of this has died, is
laid out in the Land; and star-studded
crumbles to nothing in barrow; storm-
swept, tracked and inter-woven to
Fate. What we do, we must. It is not in our hands.














